Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Messina and Mt. Etna, Italy

Messina is the last port before our final destination, Rome. We arrived here around 7 a.m. and left at 1 p.m., so I didn’t get to see a lot of it. In fact, this early morning shot from the deck of the ship is really about all I saw of Messina.

In this photograph is the Clock Tower Cathedral, the Madonna di Montalto behind it and the dome of the Sacrario Cristo Re in the upper right.

And this is a view of the port.

I had selected the tour that took us to see Mt. Etna, the largest volcano in Europe. When we got within viewing distance, it was not visible because of the clouds.

But in a few minutes, the clouds parted and revealed with beautiful snow covered spectacle. The guide told us that we were very lucky because it has been raining and foggy and just awful weather for several days, and it was not possible to see it.

Soon thereafter, it was hidden again.

We drove along the Ionian Coast up the southern slopes of Mt. Etna through several little villages. They looked deserted. Windows were shuttered, shops dimmed, and streets were almost empty. Most of the sidewalks, streets, and many of the older houses are made from lava rock.

We stopped at the Hotel Airone (Heron) for tea. The hotel dining room was sunny as we enjoyed some delicious tea cakes and the view down to the cost. We were at a height of 750 meters. I don’t know how many feet that is.

They put on a nice spread for us.

From there, we went to see the colata lavica 1992 which is the place where the lava flow stopped just short of the first house in the village. The people felt that it was a miracle and built a shrine to the Virgin Mary in thanksgiving for her protection.

Lava rock is everywhere in this region, but it is quite impressive here.

A nearby town is called the “City of Honey.” They make predominately lemon honey from the blossoms of the many lemon trees. The local women set up tables at the colata lavica area to give samples to tourists to try to entice them to buy some. It was delicious, but no one seemed interested in trying to transport it back in their suitcases.

We were back on the ship by 1 p.m. and on our way shortly thereafter. Messina is situated on the northeastern coast of Sicily on the western shore of the Strait of Messina. On the eastern shore is the toe of the boot of Italy.


The ocean was rough last night and continues to be rough right now with waves 7.5 to 12 feet. The wind is also blowing a gale. This is the kind of water I expected crossing the Atlantic, but not here.

Anyway, I am rocking and rolling as I sadly pack my bag to leave the ship tomorrow. I would gladly sail for another month. We will be in Rome for two nights, then begin our flight home on Friday.

I am unsure if I will have access to internet until I get back in the states, but if I do, I will write.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Unrequited Love

I have kept this a secret the entire voyage.

I fell in love with the cutest guy on board. He has curly, strawberry-blond hair and big brown eyes. He is not very tall, but he is firmly built.

I first saw him taking a walk on the Promenade Deck. We looked at one another; our eyes locked for a few seconds. It was love at first sight on my part.

I didn’t see him for a few days. Then just before we arrived in Portugal, I saw him again. This time he was on the aft deck, next to the Ocean View pool, waiting for a treat to be served. He glanced at me with recognition, but quickly looked away. I learned that his name is Oz.

The last time I saw Oz was while we were in port in Monaco. He was stretched out on a deck chair, taking a nap. I wanted to crawl into the blanket with him.

The Problem: He has a companion. And he was obviously very devoted to her. He was so attentive to her every need. I learned that her name is Colleen. I never saw him again. I surmise that he disembarked in Rome.

I did catch some photos of him. Here they are:


Our first encounter



Walking on deck with Colleen


Waiting for a treat


Asleep on deck chair
Oz is a companion dog. Colleen is deaf, so he is a “hearing” dog. He was the most well behaved, loveable, and faithful dog I have ever met. I still think of him, but I remain faithful to my love, Loofy.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Athens and Praeus, Greece

When I visited Athens 25 years ago, I didn’t like it. It was hot, dirty and congested. Of course I was impressed with the Parthenon. I had climbed up the Acropolis to see it and the other temples there, and the stadium below. The night before, I had seen the Acropolis under a full moon. But the city itself was a turn-off.

What a different reaction I had today! It was cool, clean, and not congested. Why the difference? Well, it is April—the very best month to visit the Mediterranean, in my opinion. It is Sunday—no congestion. The recent Olympics—they spent billions to build new transportation systems, clean buildings and monuments, and build sports venues. This is the Peace and Friendship Stadium.



We are docked at the Port of Piraeus which is really three ports in one: for ferry boats, for commercial shipping, and cruise shipping.

This is the commercial port with semi-trucks that have just driven off large commercial ferries. Note the buildings in the background which are painted with historical scenes.

We had a pleasant drive to Athens which was very quick because there was virtually no traffic. We passed the tomb of the Unknown Soldier with the Presidential Guard in traditional dress.


Instead of taking a bus panoramic tour of the city, I chose a walking tour through the Ancient Agora and the Plaka. What a superb choice! We were a small group, and we had a great guide.

The Ancient Agora (from the verb “ageiro”, meaning to gather together) was absolutely essential in the organization and functioning of ancient Greek cities. It was the political and administrative center of the city-state, and it was the place where social, commercial, and religious activities concentrated. Once in this place, Socrates, Aristotle and others would gather to teach and talk. It was here that democracy evolved.


On the other hand, the Acropolis (“acro-“ meaning high as in acrobat, acrophobia, and –polis meaning city) is where people felt closer to their gods. This is looking up the north view of the Acropolis from the Agora.


People lived in the Ancient Agora area until 1931 when John D. Rockefeller paid to have the area excavated and preserved as an historical place. The people who had lived here generation after generation used the building materials from earlier times to build and rebuild their own structures, so there isn’t much left of the original.

This Athenian Dog is surveying the remains.


The Temple of Hephasestus (God of Fire), on the other hand, is one of the best preserved monuments in Athens. It has withstood wars, earthquakes, and humans since it was on a high hill and not in the basin of the Agora. It was later used as a Byzantine Church named after St. George.


The Stoa of Attilus II has been reconstructed to show what some of these buildings once looked like. This was a shopping center with stores lining the long, covered walk way. Today it is a museum.


Right next to the Ancient Agora, is the modern day shopping area called Plaka. On Sundays, flea markets abound, people gather to have their coffee and talk, and tourists ride a little red train to gawk at it all.


We meandered through the Plaka passing what I would call “cheaper shops” like these where the merchants were standing outside waiting for customers…


Continuing through streets that had more expensive shops where their merchants sat in chairs almost in the middle of the tree-shaded street in front of their shops.



We then stopped in this café for mezedes (Greek appetizers).


Mezedes usually include tomatoes, cucumber, olives, grape leaves, feta cheese, bread, and ouzo or wine.

I had wine instead ouzo.


After our mezedes, we had some "free" time in which I spent some $$$ on a "souuvenir" for me which I bought here. The name of the shop is Georges. That name has followed me everywhere this trip.


This was a very relaxed and memorable Sunday morning.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Kusadasi and Ephesus, Turkey

Kusadasi is one of Turkey’s main holiday resorts and is the gateway to 3,000 year old Ephesus and other ancient cities. It has been over 25 years since I was last here, and the port has been “spruced up” since then. The marina is next to the port and is faced by expensive apartments.


Kusadasi has a small town beach which can be walked along on a promenade.


Turkey is predominately Muslim so it is expected to see mosques. This is a major one in Kusadasi.


I chose to return to Ephesus today since I was so impressed with it when I visited before. It is the Aegean’s best preserved ancient city. This is the Marble Way, once lined with columns and statues. The Library of Celsus can be seen at the top.


The Library was built as a tomb. Later it was used as a library where papyrus rolls were placed in the niches on the side walls. The gate links the library to the Agora, an important town center for commerce and shopping.



The Grand Theater is really impressive. It could seat 25,000.



Perhaps the most interesting structure is the Public WC. In the center was a pool ornamented with large columns and mosaics paved all around. It had stone toilet seats and running water. It could accommodate 50 people at a time. (I wish public toilets could do the same today! ) The sewer system ran under that beautiful Marble Way.



What detracts from this beautiful place are all of the vendors selling scarves, rugs, postcards, souvenirs, and genuine fake watches.



I succumbed to having my photo taken with this poor beast.



Ephesus was the center for the fledgling Christian movement. Paul’s letter to the Ephesians is like a handbook on how Christians should live and act. A short distance from Ephesus is the prison of St. Paul, Mary’s house, and the Church of St. John where he is buried.

Back in Kusadasi, along with more souvenir street sellers are beautiful stores where merchants display and sell very expensive jewelry, cashmere, silk scarves, and silk on silk Turkish carpets which cost thousands of dollars.



Friday, April 24, 2009

Santorini, Greece

This has been the most beautiful day of the entire cruise. Santorini is a spectacular and fascinating island. After several days of rain and overcast skies, the gods smiled on us, and the sun shone today illuminating the Aegean Sea and the white washed buildings.



We toured the entire island, participated in a wine tasting, ate a wonderful lunch in a tavern with a spectacular view of the caldera, visited a small Byzantine chapel, walked on one of the black beaches, and had time to stroll the streets in Oia and Fira. I took 200 photos. Here is a sample:

Classic Photo of Oia


House in Oia


Vin Santo-- One of the Wines We Tasted


Lunch at tavern that overlooked the Caldera (the caldron) left by volcano explosion
Here is the view from that tavern.


Byzantine Chapel With Easter Flowers (Orthodox Easter was April 19)


Black Beach

Artist Studio in Oia


The Cat Was Not For Sale


But the Fish Was


We took a cable car down to the port the steep cliffs of the caldron in Fira to take a tender back to our ship which is anchored in front of a island left by volcano.