Rome to Home, April 29 - May 2, 2009

We disembarked from the ship around 8:15 a.m. on Wednesday, April 29th, to a bus which took us to Rome. It is about an hour’s drive, depending on traffic. Whenever you talk about any distance in Rome (if you are not walking), you always add, “depending on traffic.”

Since we couldn’t check into our hotel until afternoon, a panoramic tour with a local guide had been arranged. We drove by and got as much as an explanation as possible in this type of driving tour of the many of the well-known monuments of Rome—Victor Emanuel’s monument (known as the “Wedding Cake” because of its very white and very ornately designed.) It is also the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. (Almost of these photos were from the bus, sometimes across the aisle and out the other window; hence, not as good as I like).

We also passed by the Roman Forum, Circus Maximus, and Capitol Hill with its famous steps.


Saint Angelo Castle and Bridge

We stopped for a photo shoot at the Coliseum


We then made our way to Vatican City. Since it was Wednesday, the Pope was holding an audience for the people. As a result, St. Peter’s Square was jammed with thousands of people. We had to time our tour to enter St. Peter’s Square after the Audience, so I didn’t get to see Pope Benedict, but thousands of people were still in the square while others were streaming out.



Before you can enter St. Peters Square, you must go through security checks and scanners. The same is true if you want to go into the Basilica. This is new since my last visit there. We didn’t go inside, but did get a good look again at the famous dome, façade, and front of the basilica.


We saw a bride and groom who had just been married there.

It is from the second window from the right which is on the first floor down from the roof at the Pope's residence where he often addresses the people.


From there, we made our way to our hotel and got checked it. It is a nice hotel near the Bourgese Gardens. We had the afternoon free, and I just walked around the neighborhood and looked in the windows admiring the beautiful clothing, especially the men’s clothing, the leather goods, and interesting things for sale in the equivalent to a hardware store.

April 30th

The next day, I shared a taxi with one of the other Vantage travelers to go the Pantheon. This is my favorite building in Rome, after St. Peter’s. This year it is celebrating its 1400th anniversary this year.


I rented one of those audio-tour phones to get a more detailed explanation of its history, construction, and the various niches, tombs, and altars. Victor Emanuel II, “the father of Italy”, is entombed here. So is Raphael.

The marble floor and walls are stunning, and the high altar is, too. It is still an active church. It is the best preserved monument in Rome.


But the dome is probably what it is most famous for with its ocular which lets in sun and rain. (The floor is slightly concave to allow the rain to drain into small holes.) Michelangelo designed the dome of St. Peters's based on this one.




After enjoying a cappuccino in the piazza in front of the Pantheon, I went on a personal walking tour though narrow streets and piazzas to the main Via Corso which led me to the Trevi Fountain


which is very close to this very fashionable shopping center called, "Galleria Alberto Sordi."


I passed by Marcus Aurelis’ Column with the history of many of the Roman wars on its spiralling freise. (It looks similar to Trajan’s column which has a spiral relief with Bible Stories)


Then I walked on to the Spanish Steps which were filled with people and flowers.


In front of these steps, is the Via Condotti (one of THE exclusive shopping streets in Rome). On this street is the Caffe Greco. When I am in Rome, I always go here to have lunch at Caffe Greco.

This café has been in existence since 1763, and many historically famous people have met and eaten here, like Buffalo Bill with Indians.


It has wonderful pastries and sandwiches.


You order from the bar and then sit and wait for a waiter who wears formal tails to serve you.


It’s expensive (about $20 for a glass of beer and a small sandwich), but I enjoyed it anyway. In fact, everything everywhere we have visited is very expensive.

I was tired after walking so much, so I hailed a taxi to go back to the hotel.

Friday, May 1

We left the hotel early to go to the airport. Since it was a national holiday, there was hardly any traffic. I have never seen so few cars and buses.

My suitcase was overweight (which I knew before I left home), but this time they were going to charge me $400!!!! I got rid of 3 kilos of weight and was still charged $150. I had to dispose of the things I took out of my suitcase because I didn’t have any room anywhere else.

The Rome airport was somewhat confusing to me. Very little signage, people shouting into the microphone so you couldn’t understand anything that was being said. Eventually we got on the plane for a 9.5 hour flight to Washington, D.C. Nine and half hours in a sitting position in little space qualifies for torture, doesn’t it?

Then the customs lines were very long, but I got through that okay. I hadn’t bought much. Next was a 3.5 hour lay-over at Dulles, then a 3 hour flight to Miami. Then schlepping the luggage to get a taxi to a nearby hotel. It was near mid-night here, which would have been 6 a.m. in Rome, when I finally got to me room. It had been a full 24 hour day.

Believe me, the only way to travel to continents is by ship. It is so refined, and hassle free, and enjoyable. Flying should, I repeat, qualify as torture…

May 2nd

I am in Miami staying at the Hampton Inn near the airport. I can see the Soffitel Hotel from my window where we had stayed just one month ago. I am writing this as I wait to leave for the airport. I will be home this afternoon. I have come full circle. With the exception of yesterday, it has been thirty days of exceptional pleasure, enjoyment, education, and relaxation.

Messina and Mt. Etna, Italy

Messina is the last port before our final destination, Rome. We arrived here around 7 a.m. and left at 1 p.m., so I didn’t get to see a lot of it. In fact, this early morning shot from the deck of the ship is really about all I saw of Messina.

In this photograph is the Clock Tower Cathedral, the Madonna di Montalto behind it and the dome of the Sacrario Cristo Re in the upper right.

And this is a view of the port.

I had selected the tour that took us to see Mt. Etna, the largest volcano in Europe. When we got within viewing distance, it was not visible because of the clouds.

But in a few minutes, the clouds parted and revealed with beautiful snow covered spectacle. The guide told us that we were very lucky because it has been raining and foggy and just awful weather for several days, and it was not possible to see it.

Soon thereafter, it was hidden again.

We drove along the Ionian Coast up the southern slopes of Mt. Etna through several little villages. They looked deserted. Windows were shuttered, shops dimmed, and streets were almost empty. Most of the sidewalks, streets, and many of the older houses are made from lava rock.

We stopped at the Hotel Airone (Heron) for tea. The hotel dining room was sunny as we enjoyed some delicious tea cakes and the view down to the cost. We were at a height of 750 meters. I don’t know how many feet that is.

They put on a nice spread for us.

From there, we went to see the colata lavica 1992 which is the place where the lava flow stopped just short of the first house in the village. The people felt that it was a miracle and built a shrine to the Virgin Mary in thanksgiving for her protection.

Lava rock is everywhere in this region, but it is quite impressive here.

A nearby town is called the “City of Honey.” They make predominately lemon honey from the blossoms of the many lemon trees. The local women set up tables at the colata lavica area to give samples to tourists to try to entice them to buy some. It was delicious, but no one seemed interested in trying to transport it back in their suitcases.

We were back on the ship by 1 p.m. and on our way shortly thereafter. Messina is situated on the northeastern coast of Sicily on the western shore of the Strait of Messina. On the eastern shore is the toe of the boot of Italy.


The ocean was rough last night and continues to be rough right now with waves 7.5 to 12 feet. The wind is also blowing a gale. This is the kind of water I expected crossing the Atlantic, but not here.

Anyway, I am rocking and rolling as I sadly pack my bag to leave the ship tomorrow. I would gladly sail for another month. We will be in Rome for two nights, then begin our flight home on Friday.

I am unsure if I will have access to internet until I get back in the states, but if I do, I will write.

Unrequited Love

I have kept this a secret the entire voyage.

I fell in love with the cutest guy on board. He has curly, strawberry-blond hair and big brown eyes. He is not very tall, but he is firmly built.

I first saw him taking a walk on the Promenade Deck. We looked at one another; our eyes locked for a few seconds. It was love at first sight on my part.

I didn’t see him for a few days. Then just before we arrived in Portugal, I saw him again. This time he was on the aft deck, next to the Ocean View pool, waiting for a treat to be served. He glanced at me with recognition, but quickly looked away. I learned that his name is Oz.

The last time I saw Oz was while we were in port in Monaco. He was stretched out on a deck chair, taking a nap. I wanted to crawl into the blanket with him.

The Problem: He has a companion. And he was obviously very devoted to her. He was so attentive to her every need. I learned that her name is Colleen. I never saw him again. I surmise that he disembarked in Rome.

I did catch some photos of him. Here they are:


Our first encounter



Walking on deck with Colleen


Waiting for a treat


Asleep on deck chair
Oz is a companion dog. Colleen is deaf, so he is a “hearing” dog. He was the most well behaved, loveable, and faithful dog I have ever met. I still think of him, but I remain faithful to my love, Loofy.

Athens and Praeus, Greece

When I visited Athens 25 years ago, I didn’t like it. It was hot, dirty and congested. Of course I was impressed with the Parthenon. I had climbed up the Acropolis to see it and the other temples there, and the stadium below. The night before, I had seen the Acropolis under a full moon. But the city itself was a turn-off.

What a different reaction I had today! It was cool, clean, and not congested. Why the difference? Well, it is April—the very best month to visit the Mediterranean, in my opinion. It is Sunday—no congestion. The recent Olympics—they spent billions to build new transportation systems, clean buildings and monuments, and build sports venues. This is the Peace and Friendship Stadium.

We are docked at the Port of Piraeus which is really three ports in one: for ferry boats, for commercial shipping, and cruise shipping.

This is the commercial port with semi-trucks that have just driven off large commercial ferries. Note the buildings in the background which are painted with historical scenes.

We had a pleasant drive to Athens which was very quick because there was virtually no traffic. We passed the tomb of the Unknown Soldier with the Presidential Guard in traditional dress.


Instead of taking a bus panoramic tour of the city, I chose a walking tour through the Ancient Agora and the Plaka. What a superb choice! We were a small group, and we had a great guide.

The Ancient Agora (from the verb “ageiro”, meaning to gather together) was absolutely essential in the organization and functioning of ancient Greek cities. It was the political and administrative center of the city-state, and it was the place where social, commercial, and religious activities concentrated. Once in this place, Socrates, Aristotle and others would gather to teach and talk. It was here that democracy evolved.

On the other hand, the Acropolis (“acro-“ meaning high as in acrobat, acrophobia, and –polis meaning city) is where people felt closer to their gods. This is looking up the north view of the Acropolis from the Agora.


People lived in the Ancient Agora area until 1931 when John D. Rockefeller paid to have the area excavated and preserved as an historical place. The people who had lived here generation after generation used the building materials from earlier times to build and rebuild their own structures, so there isn’t much left of the original.

This Athenian Dog is surveying the remains.


The Temple of Hephasestus (God of Fire), on the other hand, is one of the best preserved monuments in Athens. It has withstood wars, earthquakes, and humans since it was on a high hill and not in the basin of the Agora. It was later used as a Byzantine Church named after St. George.


The Stoa of Attilus II has been reconstructed to show what some of these buildings once looked like. This was a shopping center with stores lining the long, covered walk way. Today it is a museum.


Right next to the Ancient Agora, is the modern day shopping area called Plaka. On Sundays, flea markets abound, people gather to have their coffee and talk, and tourists ride a little red train to gawk at it all.


We meandered through the Plaka passing what I would call “cheaper shops” like these where the merchants were standing outside waiting for customers…


Continuing through streets that had more expensive shops where their merchants sat in chairs almost in the middle of the tree-shaded street in front of their shops.

We then stopped in this café for mezedes (Greek appetizers).


Mezedes usually include tomatoes, cucumber, olives, grape leaves, feta cheese, bread, and ouzo or wine.

I had wine instead ouzo.


After our mezedes, we had some "free" time in which I spent some $$$ on a "souuvenir" for me which I bought here. The name of the shop is Georges. That name has followed me everywhere this trip.


This was a very relaxed and memorable Sunday morning.

Kusadasi and Ephesus, Turkey

Kusadasi is one of Turkey’s main holiday resorts and is the gateway to 3,000 year old Ephesus and other ancient cities. It has been over 25 years since I was last here, and the port has been “spruced up” since then. The marina is next to the port and is faced by expensive apartments.


Kusadasi has a small town beach which can be walked along on a promenade.


Turkey is predominately Muslim so it is expected to see mosques. This is a major one in Kusadasi.


I chose to return to Ephesus today since I was so impressed with it when I visited before. It is the Aegean’s best preserved ancient city. This is the Marble Way, once lined with columns and statues. The Library of Celsus can be seen at the top.


The Library was built as a tomb. Later it was used as a library where papyrus rolls were placed in the niches on the side walls. The gate links the library to the Agora, an important town center for commerce and shopping.



The Grand Theater is really impressive. It could seat 25,000.



Perhaps the most interesting structure is the Public WC. In the center was a pool ornamented with large columns and mosaics paved all around. It had stone toilet seats and running water. It could accommodate 50 people at a time. (I wish public toilets could do the same today! ) The sewer system ran under that beautiful Marble Way.



What detracts from this beautiful place are all of the vendors selling scarves, rugs, postcards, souvenirs, and genuine fake watches.



I succumbed to having my photo taken with this poor beast.



Ephesus was the center for the fledgling Christian movement. Paul’s letter to the Ephesians is like a handbook on how Christians should live and act. A short distance from Ephesus is the prison of St. Paul, Mary’s house, and the Church of St. John where he is buried.

Back in Kusadasi, along with more souvenir street sellers are beautiful stores where merchants display and sell very expensive jewelry, cashmere, silk scarves, and silk on silk Turkish carpets which cost thousands of dollars.